This is not the Stud Dog originally advertised, to find out why, please click here.

We believe that the CFA Puppies are superior because:

The bitch is fed a natural diet from the moment she's born to the last day of her life. During gestation her puppies are therefore made out of these superior ingredients. (Read Ian Billinghurst's "Give your dog a bone" or Wendy Volhard's "Holistic Guide" to find out why you wouldn't want a puppy made out of commercial dog food).

When the right time comes, your puppy will be weaned onto this same diet.

Our dogs are not subjected to continual vaccine abuse and when the titre tests indicate that it is safe to do so, they are not vaccinated at all. (Flossy has yet to need a single vaccine - her blood tests prove she has adequate antibody levels for Distemper, Parvo and Hepetitis)

Our puppies are born into and raised in an organised but chaotic home environment. Their critical periods are recognised from birth and they are stimulated accordingly. Why? Because this causes more "buds" to form in the brain resulting in a more intellignt adult dog.

We have a constructive socialisation programme which we follow with all our puppies from about four weeks until the day they leave for their new homes so your new puppy won't be freaked out by anything and can confidently face its new enviornment.

These puppies are being raised by a clicker trainer with 18 years of training experience behind her. Each puppy is introduced to the clicker training method at 4 to 5 weeks of age and will already have the basic obedience exercises mastered by the time they go to their new home (sit, down, touch a target and come when called).

The stud dog is always chosen for his TEMPERAMENT first, then his health and confirmation. Show wins for beauty are not as important as brains! (Well, as far as we're concerned anyway...)

The puppies are temperament tested at 49 days (the optimum time for the Volhard Test). Depending on the knowledge of the owner, pups will be ready to go at earliest 7 weeks, latest 8.5 weeks. Click on this link for the estimated due date for this litter. You can download the Volhard Temp Test (PDF file) to test your own litter of puppies and download Volhard Temp Test Interpretation (PDF file)Wendy Volhard's interpretation of the scores.

Potential owners are rigorously interviewwed so we know as much about them as possible, this starts with a basic questionnaire. We are then in a position to match them to the most appropriate puppy in the litter. Matching puppy to parent should not be just left to chance and this method ensures that its not a "hit or miss" affair that may not work long-term.

We provide full after-care service for the life of the puppy. It will be insured for 6 weeks (probably with Pet Plan) and will have already been checked over by our own vet (Tim Hosken) - HOWEVER - We would always recommend that they go straight to your own vet for a thorough check over but that they are NOT vaccinated on this first visit. (Very happy to discuss reasons why etc on the phone, too much info to go into here.)

No one is sold a puppy until they've had time to read and sign the terms and conditions of sale in our Puppy Sales Agreement Pack. You can download and read last years copy (2005) by clicking here. Please note that it is copyright CFA material and that you may only use it or any part or portion of it by asking permission first.

In summary: This is a HOLISTIC litter.

These puppies will not be vaccinated. Flossy will continue to be fed a nutritious homemade diet (BARF) for the duration of the pregnancy, through whelping and beyond. Where ever possible, the use of man-made chemicals will be kept to an absolute minimum. Flossy is a 2nd Generation Natural Dog, her puppies will be the 3rd Generation. This, combined with the hybrid vigour of an F1 Cross (first generation), should produce some of the most amazingly healthy and superior quality Labradoodle puppies available in the UK today.

If and when Flossy has the babies, I'll assess them and we'll decide how much we'll be charging for them at that time. As a guide, they won't be less than £850 nor more expensive than £1,200. Sorry I can't be more specific right now. Nina Bonderenko (Canine Partners) has expressed an interest in the litter and I've promised her one puppy for her charity if I have enough.

If I can help you by answering any questions personally please don't hesitate to call. tel: 01344 291465 or Mobile: 07767 341424. I'm an avid Eastenders fan and am usually heading for bed by 9.30pm (we're up hideously early) so daytime calls are always appreciated..

In the meantime, if you're thinking of buying any puppy.. here are couple of pointers for you

Do:	Don't
Always see the puppies with their mother. Sometimes the father is also available - by appointment - unless the owner of the bitch also owns the dog (this is unusual)	Be fobbed of by any story as to why they can't produce her for you to look at and NEVER, EVER accept their kind offer of "free delivery"...
Like the mother of the puppies, especially her temperament.	If you're not sure you like her, what will her babies turn out like?
Ask the breeder lots of questions and expect to be extensively cross-examined yourself!	Fall for a sales pitch, or buy from a breeder who doesn't ask even basic stuff, like "Do you have a garden?"
Make sure your puppy is at least 7 weeks old before you take it home.	Take any puppy younger that this and it may not have properly socialised with its litter mates and you could have dog-to-dog problems with it later on.
Take a good look at where these puppies are kept. Does it look clean and sanitary? Is it in the house? How stimulating is the environment? Do the puppies smell nice?	Buy any puppy raised in a non stimulating environment (no toys to play with) or if their pen is rank and soiled, or if they smell rotten or bad themselves.
Closely look at your prospective purchase! Look for bright eyes, curiosity, wagging tail, happy to meet new people, confident in their environment, lean, fit and playful. They should have white (sharp) teeth and neatly trimmed nails and have an aura of glowing health around them.	Don't fall for the timid pup at the back that won't give you eye contact, or the one that shakes when you cuddle it. Dull eyes and a drooling mouth are always bad news. A pot belly usually indicates worms! The coat should be soft and shiny.
Expect to book your puppy in advance and have to wait for the right one.	Buy a pup just because its the last one left and you feel sorry for it.
The MINIMUM you should expect when you take your puppy home... • Enough of the food its been fed since weaning to last a week or so. • Also, WATER. Your supply may be different and contribute to the stress of the puppy adjusting to your new home. • Your article of clothing (the one you left when you visited at 3-5 weeks so the puppy would get to know your smell and would have something to remind it of "home" when it leaves) • The Paperwork. - A signed and dated receipt - A puppy sales agreement signed by both the breeder and the purchaser. - A Kennel Club certificate where applicable - A 5 generation pedigree	If the breeder isn't offering to give you the same food the puppy was weaned on, ASK FOR IT. (I can't believe you'd still be contemplating buying from this establishment). - Don't change the diet (no matter how disgusting it is) as soon as you get home, you'll have a very sick puppy. - Don't make additions to the diet until your new puppy is established at your home. - Feed the puppy before its had a chance to explore its new environment and find a "safe" place (like the crate and your article of clothing).
	When you mate your bitch you get a certificate from the stud-dog's owner to prove it. This gets sent to the Kennel Club when you register the litter. About 6 weeks later they send you your new puppies' pedigrees and welcome pack (with insurance). If you are buying a pedigree puppy, the breeder should have all the paperwork ready for you when you pick it up. There really is NO EXCUSE for the breeder's inability to be able to produce these documents!
Lovely and useful additions to this list are: - A complete puppy care pack, which includes where its been, what its done, how much training has been given. How to groom it, bathe it and continue training it. How to feed a natural diet and any relevant books recommended by the breeder. - Six weeks Free Insurance (Kennel Club or PetPlan) - Photographs of mother, father and litter mates.	Don't forget that any puppy will turn into a wilful adolescent and an unruly adult if its not trained. If you don't know how to do this, you MUST enroll in a good training class or take Private Lessons. No dog was ever "Born Trained"! You'll only ever get out what you were prepared to put in, in time, energy and enthusiasm! Finally, don't get conned into buying two puppies from the same litter. EVER.

 

 

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