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Hints and Tips for the perfect
photo shoot:
- Please be on time. You will have been given your "call time"
sometime before your shoot date. Please contact Katie on 07767 34 14
24 if you haven't heard from her prior to your shoot.
- Photo shoots may involve quite a lot of hanging about, especially
if we have untrained dogs on set before you. Your patience is hugely
appreciated.
- Whilst the client before you is choosing their pictures, make the
best use of the time to start arranging your dog with his props on the
set. You can also do a little 'clicker training' to get him working.
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To bring a dog into a professional shoot ungroomed,
dirty or generally dishevelled is an insult to the school, the photographer
and above all, your dog!
- Please make sure your dog has a nice trip over
to the studio! S/he will need exercising before the shoot, and may need
to relieve him/herself when she gets there. You will need to bring poo-bags
with you, ... just in case...
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Make sure you bring everything with you that
you may need. This will include: your grooming equipment, a hair dryer
(if your dog has a long coat and it is wet), clean towels, your treats
and clicker (you will be surprised how many people forget!), your
mobile phone (just in case you get held up). And your DOG!!!
- As we are shooting digitally, you will be able to choose your prints
on the day of the shoot. Please bring your cheque book or cash with
you to pay for the prints at the time you order them. We cannot accept
IOU's!
- Don't be the Handler From Hell! The HFH client will:
Barge into the set with his/her dog off lead, without checking
that the previous dog is finished
"Tut" and "Sigh" thoughout the shoot
Obstruct the photographer
Obstruct the client (if it is a sponsored shoot)
Get angry with his/her dog when it can't do what it does "perfectly
at home"
Look unhappy or morose thoughout the shoot
Has a collar on the dog that obviously hasn't been removed for years,
ususally the buckle is encrusted with yukky stuff
Won't have given the dog a chance to pee before coming into the
studio
Be aggressive and/or "Pushy" on set
Take ages deciding which pictures they want, then realise they don't
have any money on them!
Refuse to let a professional handler take over and work their dog
for them when what they're doing is not working
Does not apologise for being late then takes up even more time by
insisting on telling everyone how lost they got!
"Tuts and sighs" if they have to wait for their turn
Makes loud comments about other dogs as they are working
Trys to "help" other people prepare their dogs for the
shoot, by telling them what is wrong with their dog
Arrives looking like they've been dragged through a hedge backwards.
- Remember: it is easier for us to work with a difficult dog, than a
difficult handler. If we get a call from a director who wants to use
your breed of dog on a shoot, we will pick the easiest dog and handler
combination to work with.
This is a rough guide to show
you what to expect on the day of the shoot:
Positioning a dog manually is known as "modelling". This has
to be practised well before your shoot so your dog doesn't get stressed
by the experience.
As you can see, the set is very tight for a large dog like Nicola Talbot's
Diva, pictured here.
Lights for this shoot were directly above, front right and front left
corners, with reflectors on both sides of the set.
Practise all your stays - you need to be approximately 10 feet from your
dog.
The overhead lighting is set up to light your dog - NOT to be convenient
for you!! Practise setting up your dog while you are crouching
or kneeling.
Short coated male dogs have should really be 3/4's on to the camera when
they are lying down or sitting (we don't want to have any willy shots
- if you have a short coated male dog practice positions where his 'bits'
are hidden!)
At school you will hear us talking about "eye-lines". This
term refers to where the dog is looking when the picture is being taken.
The dog will generally be looking at you, the handler, so it is important
to practise getting these "eye-lines" right by
standing right behind or over someone whilst you are setting your dog
up.
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This picture of Mozart, a chocolate labrador puppy,
shows the importance of eye-line to camera. The puppy is looking
directly into the lens and this really "makes" the picture. |
On the other hand, this is a picture of Reeba,
one of my favourite dogs at the CFA. A super set-up with the dog
endorsing the Christmas present with his chin, but with the eye-line
just 'ever-so-slightly off' the picture is not quite what it could
have been. |
You don't want to obstruct any of the lights - this will
cause shadows on your dog, or on the background, neither of which is desirable.
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Black dogs in particular require every bit of
light they can get. This picture shows Oscar - perfectly lit and
groomed so that he is positively gleaming under the flash photography.
We bring many grooming products to the shoots with us to help you
get this look. |
Although Jack was exceptionally well turned out
for this shoot, this picture clearly indicates that no matter how
well groomed or how shiny your dog is, if you stand in front of
the flash lights you won't get the picture you were expecting. |
You certainly don't want to be walking into lights or set - both take
quite some time to re-adjust/put back together!
Break a leg!
To see the pics from the Latest Shoot, click
here.
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